Jai Shree Ram!

The initial idea was to visit Kashi as it has been good seven years since I visited my most favourite place on earth. And then Ram Lalla temple happened. We flew to Ayodhya directly to witness the stunning and much awaited temple. Revered by millions in Bharat and all over the world. The emotion related to this temple is astounding. We truly bow down to the faith and “aastha” alive for over five hundred years.

Living in Mumbai and having a western inflicted approach towards life, I use to wonder about the complexities of being a Hindu and why temples. In this journey of life and having met spiritual masters, gave me a clarity of the simplicity of being a Hindu or a Sanatani, as I now call myself with pride. Hinduism isn’t complex as it sounds or made to sound. It is simple and it is the truth of just being reverential towards life.

In Ayodhya, our arrival was at the beautifully done airport where the walls were covered with most beautiful paintings. I knew I was in for more. After maneuvering a bit of traffic, we arrived at the newly built Park Inn by Radisson. Fresh, crisp, and perfect for a couple of nights. The other hotels that are good are the Ramayana hotel and many more are coming up. There is luxurious tented accommodation – Praveg. Praveg Brahma Kund is just across the Ram Lalla temple and Praveg Saryu is on the banks of Saryu river.

We met our guide who suggested to visit the Saryu Ghats first and then the Ram Lalla temple as the weather would be cooler and crowds a bit lesser in the evening and me less intimidated. The fervor, madness, the love, faith for the long wait of Ram Lalla was crystal clear in the eyes of all that you meet here. Jai Shree Ram, Jai Shree Ram, Jai Shree Ram resonated in the air.

The steps of the manmade ghats of the Saryu, originally Ram ki Paidi, where they light the diyas and celebrate on some days or merely have fun in the waters was mesmerizing. We visited Nageshwar Nath and Kala Ram temple. These are ancient spaces and have fascinating stories to tell. The alleys were clean, and we could walk easily. Each step and space had a story to tell about the characters of our history. My guide told me that the space was so powerful that constant being around the temple spaces has cured mental illnesses.

We proceeded to Ram Janmabhoomi Teerth Shetra. We parked at an organized car park, from here the walk is around 2 – 3 kilometers. From the temple gates, wheelchairs are available for the seniors free of cost. After a long wait and maneuvering the crowds, we got the glimpse of Ram Lalla and he was beholding. Those captivating eyes left me blurry eyed. Amidst the crazy teem of humanity, I did get a private movement with my Bhagwan. I was elated and so was everyone who came there.

A lot of people asked me if they should wait for the temple to get completed. I feel that follow your instinct and just go as you are sure to go there again and again and again. I suggest two nights here if you wish to enjoy visiting the other temples like Hanuman Garhi and Kanak Bhawan.

Our next stop was Prayagraj, a very beautiful city. The roads are smooth in Uttar Pradesh and the early start works well to reach in time for traditional breakfast of kachori sabzi and jalebi. Followed by Haldi and gur ki chai. Drop your diet at these places. Or else you will miss these delicious treats.

Enjoy the boat ride at the Sangam. Confluence of Ganga, Jamuna, and the mystical Sarasvati. Triveni or “three rivers” celebrates the three predominant aspects of the Devi – Durga, Lakshmi, and Sarasvati. It is a most revered spot for the Hindus. And here is where Kumbh is held, the largest congregation of humanity.

Prayag also has three temples dedicated to Devi. Alopi Devi, Kalyani Devi and Lalita Devi. They are strategically located in the city forming a triangle. In the ancient geometry, a triangle is a yantra creating a vortex of energy. Thus, making this place very powerful.

After the boat ride and the pooja at the Sangam, we went to the Hanuman mandir and then drove to Kashi leaving the Devi temple visit for the next time. However, if you have time in your favor then do visit these temples.

Kashi, Shiv ki nagri, where Shiva is everywhere…  “har kankar kankar Shankar”.  A place that cannot be articulated in words… you must be there to feel it.

There are various names to this city. Apart from Kashi, Varanas, Benaras, Rudravasa… They say it’s not on the earth, it lies on Bhagwan Shiva’s trishul. It’s the precision of its geometry and ancient architecture that makes it so divine and alive after thousands of years.

This is a place where a few days are short and there are lots of places where you must bow down in reverence. The must is the boat ride to witness the sunrise, where you will also witness life from the beginning till the end on the holy banks of Ganga. The people taking a bath, performing Surya namaskar, chant mantras and the mahasmashan or the largest cremation at the Manikarnika ghat, where the last rites for the departed are performed. The complete cycle of life can be captured in a walk along the ghats. It seems people came here towards the end of life, as it is a place for salvation.

After the boat ride, take a walk in the old city.  Visit Vishalakshi Temple, a shakti peeth and Annapurna Temple next to Kashi Vishwanath temple, where our Prime Minister has done a phenomenal job. Clean roads and well organized for all. If you are an early riser, visit the temple for Mangala Aarti in the early hours. You could book your Aarti from the website that gives detailed information on the temple and the rituals you could participate. And if you enjoy the evening darshan then participate in the Sapta Rishi aarti. Amidst the crazy crowds you will find your moment of joy as we did.

Your yatra will not be complete if you miss the darshan of Kala Bhairava. He is the ‘Kashi Kotwal’, the protector of the Kashi. While walking in the old city you will come across various other beautiful temples. Go to one of them and sit there for some time. Go and search for your spiritual spot or simply enjoy sitting at the ghats.

Sunrise is a must and so is the evening Ganga Aarti at Dashashavamedha Ghat.  You could opt for an evening boat ride or a spot at one of the terraces, which your guide will be happy to find for you. It’s the pancha bhoot (five elements) offering to Maa Ganga. Namely, fire, water, earth, air and space.

There are many hotels, dharamsalas, dormitories, etc… you could choose from. And you could write to me for more.

If you wish to explore all the temples of the Kashi mandala then you could go for a Pancha Kosi yatra. When is it done? Anytime you are ready.

For the first timers to the Kashi, it could get a bit overwhelming so get into a small practice of meditation before you head there. It helps.

Kashi, the Eternal City… here is an interesting conversation between Sadhguru and Prasoon Joshi. This gives an idea about the geometry of the city and its essence.

I watched Benaras movie years ago… if you haven’t been there maybe you could get a glimpse of the city before you go.

Happy travels!